Peinture et Paradise! Paint and Paradise — St. Martin, Part III

Over the years, when visiting St. Martin, we make numerous drives around the island to Marigot, where our favorite patisserie is — Sarafina’s.  Often, we continue north, motoring up steep hills, passing roads to Friar’s Bay and Pic Paradise, descending into grassy pastures on the north side of the island to spend the day at Orient Beach.  On this route, we drive by a flat, white  building on the top of a busy hill, with a sign that says  “ART – Minguet — ART GALLERY” — but we had never stopped.   Until this year.

Minguet Art Gallery, Rambaud Hill, St. Martin

It is a building you may notice, but just briefly, as you whisk by it so quickly in the heavy two lane traffic — you need to pay attention here, both hands on the wheel and focused straight ahead, as there are often accidents and road hazards along this narrow and hilly stretch of road.  But, the artist picked this spot on purpose — to be a “destination”,  to be visited with forethought, not just for gawking and curious tourists who know nothing of the art world.  THIS is a serious gallery. It’s for those who seek out art and will go to necessary lengths to visit.

We were on watch for the gallery as we ascended the hill, and when the opposing line of traffic gave us a quick break, and before the cars behind us started honking or whizzing by on the treacherous shoulder, we turned into the tiny parking lot — not much room, even for the itty-bitty car we had rented.  The gardens and patio out front are loaded with Bougainvillea flowing over a pink picket fence and some cactus and other tropical plants brighten the entrance.  There is a balcony above the garden and storefront, where there is obviously an apartment — the curtains are flowing out through the open window and there is sound of life above — a radio maybe, with a muffled foreign accent wafting down.  As you enter the glass doors to the reception area, there’s a melange of art and marketing!  Books on Minguet, postcards on Minguet, posters for sale, photographs and more. Behind the long shop counter, a woman with long dark hair and slight physique  appears and introduces herself as Catherine Minguet – the artists daughter.  She begins her speech immediately and continues to educate us on her father and his art for the next hour.  (FYI — photos in this post were taken from a book we purchased.  Catherine does not allow photographs in the gallery).

Catherine, in the gallery at Rambaud Hill

Alexandre Minguet (pronounced Ming-Gay) passed away in 1996 but is still sold worldwide and represented in several galleries, he owned this one in Rambaud Hill, St. Martin and one in his home country of France — she has inherited both.  Catherine tells us that she travels between the galleries several times a year and is the main representative for his work.  Her father was born in France in 1937 and was educated in the art academies there.  She tells us that he fell in love with St. Martin and the hibiscus flower on his first visit to the island (he loved to travel and visited most of the islands of the Caribbean), and decided to set up part-time residence here.  He was 59 years old when he passed away, and the photos of him show a rotund fellow, with a beard and balding head, sitting at an easel, wearing an apron, prepped to paint.  In other photos, he in a group — at dinner with friends, maybe, with a slight smile and plump cheeks.  He looks like a serious painter.  And Catherine is serious about him, too.

As you peer through the tight and cluttered reception area, and down some wide steps, a large vaulted room filled with art awaits.  And I mean, chock full!  Shelves and racks and drawers of prints are at every turn.  There is also a smaller room featuring other artists, alive and dead, from Europe and other locales, that Catherine collects and sells.

“Flowers, Space & Time” by Alexandre Minguet

When I first entered the gallery, I looked to the left and was halted by a huge canvas (at least 10’x10′), a still life with a vase of flowers, soft pink and green watery strokes in the background, and French words, floating in the paint.   I am transfixed.  Catherine sees my interest in the painting and recounts her fathers explanation of it, as if it was her own — “he heard the flowers speak to him and express time and the space around them”, and on… and on….and on and on…a detailed story that frankly, I was not tuned into very well.   I am internally apologetic for not listening to her more closely, but, at that moment, I was interpreting the painting for myself, which is what I tend to do when a beautiful piece flirts with me.  I asked the price, but she didn’t give me a figure, which led me to believe it was not for sale (or extremely expensive) — from her description, it is dear to her heart, I am sure.  She pointed out there were signed prints of the piece ranging from $2,000 and up.   (In the end, Jim bought me a large postcard of it…..which I will eventually frame and enjoy in my home).

Minguet’s works are expressive and fluid — fast paintings with passion and color — and familiar objects like flowers, boats on the sea, shady beaches, and more flowers.  I can imagine this round man, setting up for the day, inspired by a landscape at his feet, attacking his canvas without a word, maybe with beads of sweat on his forehead, a glass of icy water nearby to help cool him, and within mere hours, 5 paintings are signed and finished. It’s apparent that the man loved nature and St. Martin sang to him — more so than anywhere else.  There are paintings of France, but St. Martin had the color and vibrancy he loved (and I get it completely).  By the volume of work in this gallery, he was prolific and analytic in his approach to marketing and pricing his work.  Catherine explains he learned to make lithographs himself to offer lower priced art and became quite skilled at the process (for those of you who do not know, lithograph prints are made from images on a large “litho” stone — a fine limestone slab, using oil and water resist, and a grinding wheel and grit that erases images so you can use the same stone over and over — it’s an arduous process — extremely antiquated compared to the digital prints we have today).

A Seascape by Minguet

The entire time, while we browse the gallery, Catherine articulates and reiterates Minguet’s purpose in his work.  She is an encyclopedia on her Dad’s thoughts!   How many of us know our fathers that well?  I was just as impressed with her passion for her fathers art, as I was with the art itself.  What artist wouldn’t relish to have such representation?  His passion has become hers.  And although she says she is an artist herself, not one of her pieces is on display (we asked).  We find out later, she has a brother, but obviously, she was her fathers favorite child.

Island landscape by Minguet

One wall is lined with metal, low profile cabinets with wide drawers.  Catherine opens the drawers and exposes hundreds of original paintings — mostly watercolors, each with a story — she shows them to us, holding them delicately and respectfully, one by one, lyrically giving us the title, place, date, and interpretation.  She apologizes that more originals are not available for viewing — they are still in dry storage from the hurricane season.  She takes them out of their frames and keeps them in a safe place several months a year.  But there are prints for sale!  At this point, I believe she thinks we are wealthy collectors — because we are knowledgeable about art and are so interested in the work — I feel that it is necessary to point out that we are emerging artists ourselves and cannot afford to buy, but appreciate all of the time she has spent with us.  Catherine is simply delighted that we came to see her fathers gallery — she appreciates our appreciation, I believe.  And from the sounds of it, she is doing well for herself, traveling the world, selling her dearest one’s art.

Another seascape with flowers in the foreground

Upon our departure, my boyfriend buys a few large postcards and a book on Alexandre Minguet.   Not a huge purchase to her, I’m sure, but she is gracious and asks us to please visit again.  We are happy to have finally ventured into this artists world.  The gallery on top of a hill, a destination worth stopping for.

As we descend the hills of Rambaud and continue towards Orient Bay, our focus diverts to food.  “Let’s go somewhere new for lunch!”  At the opposite end of the bay from our usual haunt (Club O), we decide to investigate a heavily mentioned restaurant/spa called Palm Beach.   There’s a large parking lot and plenty of spaces open as we drive up — it is low season.  Although I’m thinking “Palm Beach?  Not very creative…..and kind of confusing for American’s as we think of the famous Florida Palm Beach when we hear the name…..” as we begin to walk the path to the restaurant it is obvious where the name derives.  Hundreds of coconut bearing palm trees — a grove actually, stand majestic in front of the large facility.  An oasis of shady palm trees.  Pretty cool. (here’s their website:  http://www.palmbeachsxm.net/ check it out!!)

Grove of coconut palms at Palm Beach, Orient Bay, St. Martin

The restaurant is rambling — more of a day spa or club.  There is a beach bar, and wicker lounge chairs and cabanas on the beach, a massage shop and what looks like a yoga or meditation room (maybe doubling as a party room for events?).  A gift shop is on site and the restaurant has two levels that are wide open to views of the beach.  At the right side of the property this is a massive deck area with stacks of chairs and long picnic-like tables for big gatherings.  We were shown to a 2nd floor table and given a recitation of the specials of the day — very French — like duck, foie gras and lobster.  Very expensive.   Instead, we order sandwiches off the printed menu, with prices more to our budget, but the specials sounded divine!  We ask the waitress how many people Palm Beach can accommodate.  She says that several buses come from the cruise ships daily and they can accommodate several hundred at a time.  And at that moment, a bus load was entering the beach area to our right….American cruise ship tourists — about 20 to 30 of them.

The Specials Menu at Palm Beach Restaurant

My sandwich is a chicken and goat cheese beauty! Grilled chicken with a thick slice of goat cheese melted on a homemade bun and a luscious green salad — this gets registered in my mental recipe box!   And Jim orders a burger and fries.  If that sounds mundane, you are oh so wrong!  Burgers in paradise, remember? They were very good, but the location was spectacular and made the meal taste even better.

Chicken & Goat Cheese!!!!

A Cheeseburger in Paradise!

As we munch on our lunch, the people watching is superb!  The American cruise ship crowd is frolicking in the surf — which is quite robust with a stiff wind this afternoon.  A few women are caught by surprise as waves slam them into the shore and tumble them onto the beach — their husbands (I am assuming) enjoy the wreckage of woman and wave, and belly laugh at their mates.  The women are unphased, laugh at themselves and attempt to enter the ocean again.  This goes on for a while.  Eventually, they end up in a group beyond the breakers, bright white skin, bobbing and laughing in the cerulean blue water.  Eventually they venture back to shore to sip on their rum drinks and have their lunch.  It’s sad to me to think that they enjoy this paradise for only a few hours — then get back on a crowded ship full of humans just like them.  I did a cruise before, and it’s just not for me.  I like to learn a place, dive into it, become part of it and immerse myself in the culture, food and people.   And I realize, that a cruise ship is about low-cost and tasting different places.  I guess I like to devour….not taste.

View from our table

At the end of our meal we are presented with a tall slender bottle of homemade banana rum — on the house.  We are not big drinkers, but it was a sweet and yummy treat.  An authentically island way to end lunch among the palm trees.

Dessert has arrived!

Because we ate at their restaurant, we get to lounge for free on their beach.  We settle into two chaises with white cushions under a white umbrella at the far end of the beach from the bus load of tourists.  A nap is in order.  The surf is too strong for a dip but it keeps us cool as we relax on our chairs.  Palm Beach is a definite revisit — it would be fun to see this large facility filled to the brim and rockin’.   But today, we nap in the breezy sun, and savor this island paradise.   Minguet’s paradise.

Palm Tree at Palm Beach

Voila! Paintings and Lobster — St. Martin — Part II

Since our last visit to St. Martin a year ago, a new gallery has emerged in the Cupecoy area (Dutch side) — close to where we like to stay when we visit (Maho/Cupecoy — this year we stayed at Wyndham Sapphire Beach Club & Resort). We drive by the Porto Cupecoy villas and marina several times a day on our way to Marigot, and shop at the Le Grand Marche’ for our groceries there….but rarely do we venture into the beautiful Tuscan style plaza inside the archway entrance.

Entrance to shops, restaurants and marina at Porto Cupecoy

On this Tuesday night, the weather was perfection — a soft sea breeze, textbook cumulus clouds drifting by, and the pink and tangerine sunset of Cupecoy fading to dark cerulean blue. This is the weather we come to St. Martin for in October.  Not too hot, not too humid.  Simply lovely.

Sunset at Porto Cupecoy plaza and marina.

This new gallery is a collaborative effort of artists on the island and it is called “Art Lovers Association d’Artistes”.   This is something every community should have!

Art Lovers Gallery — St. Martin at Porto Cupecoy

The gallery is in the plaza of Porto Cupecoy, just to the right of the front entrance.  An Italian fountain flows in front of the harbor full of small yachts and large sailboats.  The complex is quiet — it is the low season and the gallery is only open from 4pm to 8pm a few days a week.

Roland Richardson paintings at Art Lovers Gallery, Cupecoy

The attendant of the gallery was pleased to have some art lovers to engage with on such a quiet evening.  She was happy to know that we were already familiar with several of the artists on the island, in particular Roland Richardson (he had a few small paintings hanging at this space).  A few other artists intrigued us, and we discussed their work and backgrounds with her.

A brooding seascape by Alexia Coppini at the Art Lovers Gallery, Cupecoy

Deep and dark seascapes by Coppini

Alexia Coppini, an artist from Malta, has found her way to the St. Martin art scene.  Her pieces are inspired by vast seas and big skies, which surround her native island, 50 miles off the coast of Sicily.  She paints in oil on large canvases with a brooding palette — dark blues and purples depict large frothy swells in the moonlight.  Her originals are priced from $1950 to $3900.

A harbor scene by Lilo at Art Lovers Gallery in Cupecoy, St. Martin

My favorite piece by Lilo — looks like several locations on St. Martin

Lilo, (a “pen name” I believe) is an artist I had seen before, but not extensively.  The landscapes, seascapes and still lifes that I was drawn to are in soft island colors and are priced $400 to $1650  She appears to be a resident of the island and lives near Baie Longue/Terres Basses (an upscale neighborhood — also where Roland Richardson resides).

Dancers painted by Petros at Art Lovers Gallery, Cupecoy, St. Martin

Mini Flamboyant painting by Petros and Art Lovers Gallery — $399, and I wish I owned it.

Petros, a native of Dominica, paints fast in vibrant expressionistic strokes and depicts Caribbean nightlife, dancers and still lifes, priced $390 to $950 (my favorite piece was the mini flamboyant for $390 — oh how I wish I had an extra $400 in my pocket!!).

There were a few abstract artists, but mostly landscapes, still life and people were the subject matters in this gallery.   Why would you want to paint abstracts on an island where there are so many other beautiful things to interpret?  (I love a good abstract, but the beauty of St. Martin is SO paintable).

Poster for the Art Lovers Association — hanging in my home, now.

We grabbed a free poster and some postcards of the artists to put in the “archives” at home — you never know when one should be featured in a blog post…..or maybe, when I come into some money, I can commission a special piece from them.  Right?

The sun had set and the waning full moon was  now rising high in the sky casting soft light on the harbor at Porto Cupecoy.  The palm trees were wrapped in rope lights and the ambiance was romantic and serene.  It felt like we were on the coast of Italy — Portofino, maybe.  But, it was just another exquisite evening in St. Martin.

Portofino, Italy (interpreted in St. Martin)

Now, it was dinner time.  We set out for a  restaurant near Simpson Bay that we kept hearing about from other SXM regulars — Topper’s.  We drive by this place frequently — it’s right on the main drag along with many other food establishments that advertise “Best Burger” or “Best Lobster” or “Voted Best on the Island” all with heavy advertisements in the tourist mags.  Topper’s is smaller in size from the road and looks like a boisterous bar — open aired (of course) and usually filled with jovial patrons at night, loud music flowing out onto the streets.  Last year, we drove by after a recommendation came to us from a fellow passenger on the flight in, but there was a Halloween costume party going on, and it looked way too wild for us.  Tonight was the night to finally check it out.  And we were pleasantly surprised.

Topper’s in Simpson Bay, St. Martin

The crowd is getting rowdy at Topper’s bar!

As we walked up to Topper’s the place looked like it was already hoppin’ — and it was only 7pm. The DJ was bellowing over his microphone, conversing with some tourists and intermittently spinning older sing-a-long hits.  The long bar front had several mixologists pouring and joining in with the DJ banter.   As the hostess led us through a doorway at the end of the bar, the temperature dropped (A/C is on — Jim is happy) and a cozy dining room opens up — the loud bar scene falling away behind us. The decor is typical “island” with a high exposed beam ceiling, and the trim is painted in grass green and sunny yellow (their signature colors from the looks of their logo).  There were  photos of the owners through the years hung about, a few stuffed fish, and dividing the room, in a crafty and clever way, some brightly painted sticks placed vertically in a planter with twinkly lights which created some nice interest to the space. Not fancy, but comfortable and clean.

The dining room at Topper’s

The specials tonight were Lobster for $16/lb. and Prime Rib for $22.  I had been craving lobster (hands down the food I’d request if it was my last meal) and Jim couldn’t pass up the brisket.   Both entrees included 2 side dishes.  I also ordered a glass of Pinot Grigio to celebrate the eating of LOBSTER!  Yay!

Brisket Dinner at Topper’s

Lobster!! My friend.

As we ate, the tables started filling up, mostly couples, but a few larger groups sat down and the restaurant was filled with laughter and good food.  The bar was rocking as a few ladies  (in their 60’s, I presume) were vacationing like they meant it!  Dancing and singing and laughing with drinks in hand.  (A few days later, we ran into these same women in the elevator at the resort where we stayed.  Uh-oh).

Topper’s surprised us.  And everyone who had recommended it was right.  It’s a great “local” place (meaning “locals” in a time-share way) with great service, good food and decent prices.  The lobster was divine and fresh  and the brisket was a nice portion and cooked perfectly.  Next visit to SXM – we will revisit both places again– good art and good food.  That’s what life is about, right?

The bill arrived in a cute box.  Nice touch.

Dessert!

Bon Jour! Art & Food from St. Martin – Part I

View of Marigot and harbor from the top of Fort Louis.

October is the month for our annual trip to the Gourmet Capitol of the Caribbean – St. Martin (French side) or St. Maarten (Dutch side) – 2 countries/1 island. It’s Europe in the tropics!

My boyfriend, Jim,  introduced me to this marvelous place in 2010 and this was my fourth year visiting with him (his 10th). The creative souls of this island (chefs and painters in particular) have an amazing backdrop of inspiration – beautiful beaches, turquoise waters and colorful flora and fauna – the Flamboyant tree being the most stunning (I think). The local energy is everywhere in the open air markets, Creole restaurants and roadside BBQ vendors. St. Martin is vibrant, exotic and intoxicating!

A pruned Flamboyant tree in the harbor of Marigot (across the street from Sarafina’s)

The Flamboyant bloom is one of the largest flowering tree blooms in the world.

It’s low season in October, and some restaurants close for the month or work on renovations prior to peak time (December thru February) but others are open and offering specials. “Escargot – all you can eat for 30euros!” – you just don’t see that everyday! If a place you’ve read about is closed, rest assured, there are plenty of choices and sometimes too many choices that you can’t get to all of them in one visit (but that gives you a good excuse to return, again and again).

Marigot, on the north side of the island, is the French capital and my favorite restaurant in the whole, wide world is there. Facing the Marigot harbor (on Boulevard de France) – Sarafina’s Patisserie & Boulangerie is now an old friend. It is unassuming with its low hanging awning, but when you duck your head and enter the open air cafe – step up to the glass food case and you will be in awe. Over 15 feet long, the cases are filled with mouth-watering delights. Rows and rows of pastries – cakes, tarts, cookies, croissants, macaroons, doughnuts, cream puffs and things that can’t be described with one word. The chefs are artists and I suspect that they bake all night long. There is a fresh bread counter, too where locals grab their daily baguette, regular – like clock work – and there are many more varieties of loaves stacked in baskets – some with diagonal cuts dusted in flour or oatmeal baked on top. And then the lunch-fare case – hello! Pizzas, several varieties of quiche, ham croissants with cheese melted on top, ornate baguette subs, and adorable mini sandwiches. And everything is dressed in delectable detail. The old saying “your eyes are bigger than your stomach” rings true. Watch out – you will order more than you can devour in one sitting (so take some with you!)

Sarafina’s in Marigot — unassuming from the street.

Sarafina’s open air café in Marigot.

So many beautiful and delectable pastries to choose from at Sarafina’s

And the pastries go on and on at Sarafina’s

More luscious pastries — tarts and Napoleans and eclairs.

Some puff pastry twists at Sarafina’s.

Can sandwiches be gorgeous? They are at Sarafina’s.

Beautiful mini sandwiches.

We visit Sarafina’s at least 5 times in one week. Sometimes for breakfast, sometimes to take out sandwiches for a beach picnic, and quite often, just for dessert. I also enjoy ordering off of the menu, which most don’t realize is available – they are too dumbstruck with the visions in the glass cases. I love their crepes and order them for breakfast with mushrooms – it’s one giant crepe folded over cheese and mushrooms and drizzled with a tangy sauce – one crepe as big as the plate!  And I always make sure to order the Salade la Toscano (Tuscan Salad) for lunch. It’s a variety plate with a green salad in a vinaigrette, a corn salad, goat cheese on baguette toasts, prosciutto, pickles, hard-boiled eggs and more. Magnifique! (Makes me wish I was French).

Mushroom & cheese crepe at Sarafina’s.

We ordered some mini-sandwiches from Sarafina’s — so cute! (and good)

Salade la Toscano — a wonderful lunch from the menu at Sarafina’s

A chocolate and cherry Napolean at Sarafina’s — gone in a flash!

I ordered this profiterole tower (cream puff) with candy disks and strawberries. Heaven!

Now that my French food fetish has been satisfied it’s time for a nice walk around Marigot. If the cruise ships are docking, we like to visit the local market – vendors under tents selling spices, “bath tub” rum, handcrafts and a lot of touristy stuff. At the end of the street, we turn right at Rue de la Republique, and walk up the hill to the gallery of a local artist who has made a living painting the Flamboyant tree (or Royal Poinciana). Sir Roland Richardson is the descendent of aristocrats and politicians that go back several generations. He is a unique individual – often donning a wide-brimmed floppy hat (almost sombrero like) while painting in Plein Aire (outdoors and on-site) always wearing a long-sleeved shirt and pajama-like linen pants. His white beard, wispy and long, gives him the look you want from an artist raised on this exotic island. A charming man (we have visited with him on previous trips) who speaks of color and nature and how they affect each other in his paint. Ethereal talk, mostly, but the man can speak about whatever he wants – he is a success, and undoubtedly his paintings hang in the most luxurious homes on St. Martin and internationally. His soft brush strokes in oil mimic the flutter of the flowers and fronds in the subtle ocean breeze. More impressionistic than expressionistic, his paintings are happy and colorful. Some portraits hang in his gallery, but most of the paintings focus on flowers. He sells originals for $2,000 to $20,000 and giclee prints for $275 and up. He also has a large collection of etchings, or prints, with many featuring architecture from Marigot – you can buy a numbered and signed print for under $50.

The entrance to Roland Richardson’s gallery in Marigot.

One of Roland Richardson’s paintings of a Flamboyant bloom.

Roland Richardson’s gallery – the main room.  (There are several more rooms of art and upstairs, too)

His gallery is housed in a very old building that has been in his family for over a century – wander through it and you will find a garden, in a courtyard, reminiscent of something Monet would have. Hummingbirds, bright-colored finches and butterflies flit from plant to plant and bees hum around the blooms of all colors. Makes me wish I had my brushes and a canvas and a whole day to paint!

The courtyard garden at Roland Richardson’s gallery.  Monet would be proud!

Sir Roland Richardson — artist from St. Martin.

This is the perfect duo for me – my favorite restaurant just a short distance to one of the prettiest galleries I have ever visited.  AND in paradise to boot!  C’est si bon!

Bon Jour!!! Me and my baguette (I was French in another life).

And the winners are……..

6 days have passed since the Showdown art exhibit opened at Hart Witzen Gallery in NoDa.  I wanted to find out who won and wanted to return to the scene.  The announcement was scheduled for 10pm on Friday night, October 4th, and although I tried, I found no one to go with me.  What was I going to do until 10pm?

Because I didn’t feel like dining alone, this is strictly going to be an “art” blog.  Sorry — no enticing food pictures.  I ended up visiting the Charlotte Art League in Southend for the opening reception for Art Beyond Sight, a show of tactile art for Art Beyond Sight Awareness Month — art to benefit those with sight, and those without.  As a member of CAL, I know they had a difficult time finding pieces for this show, but I did want to see what ended up being exhibited.  In the end, I did not take any photos of the show — it was not the most successful exhibit they have had, but they did get the walls filled.  There was also a silent auction going on for some art pieces, gift certificates and event tickets that would benefit their outreach program. The crowd was decent, but the gallery was stifling– and I went outside after a few minutes to cool off.

As I stood outside, a distinguished-looking man stepped out of the gallery with one of Stefan Duncan’s paintings…a solo tree in the center of a large canvas with grays, blacks, reds and oranges.  The man seemed anxious — he stepped out into the street, then turned around and came back to the curb where I was standing.  So I asked him, “Did you just purchase that painting?” — and the conversation ensued.

Blaze in the Twilight — this might be the piece that was purchased

This was the first original painting he had ever purchased in his life — my estimation was that he was in his 60’s and by his attire, he had some class.  He explained that he had been a well-off businessman for years and had always been surrounded by fine things — furniture, art, interior décor, but he had never owned an original piece himself.  Now, I know that Stefan Duncan is one of CAL’s premier artists and he sells a lot of work — and it’s very likeable, with trees, and colorful squiggly backgrounds, and birds, and I congratulated the man on a fine piece of art.  The conversation continued.

The man had owned a multi-million dollar furniture business for years, and lost it all in the recession (the furniture recession started in the early 2000’s when manufacturing went to China, along with textiles).  He was trying to simplify his life and do things that he felt mattered to HIM.  All his life was spent in and around the Charlotte area, working hard, but he had never been to a local art gallery like the Charlotte Art League.  A friend of his brought him tonight, and he felt compelled to purchase a piece of art — for the first time, ever.  You could feel his excitement and joy!

As luck would have it, a few friends of mine were at CAL (new members, like me) and they worked in the furniture industry.  Earlier, one of them pointed this gentleman out and asked me if I knew him — minutes before the curbside conversation.  I said I didn’t recognize him.  She felt sure she knew him, but couldn’t place from where.  After my conversation with the man, I asked him to please come back inside as I wanted to introduce him to my friends.  After the introduction, the light bulb lit up above my friends head — he had been extremely prominent in furniture — and afterwards she was overjoyed at meeting this icon.  We discussed how cool it was that he was purchasing local art and getting back to what mattered in life.  And enjoying the simple things.

Afterwards, because it was still not time to go to the Showdown, my friends and I walked across the street from CAL and had a drink at the Common Market — they had never been here.  It’s an unassuming place, a small hallway with a tiny sign on the sidewalk, leads you back to a courtyard filled with music, tables and lots of people.  The Common Market got it right — serve groceries, and cold beverages and sandwiches, and let folks linger while they enjoy their goods.  You can buy a six-pack of beer at regular grocery store prices, a box of crackers, a hunk of cheese, and break them out and enjoy them, right on the spot.  It’s a very cool, quirky and fun place.  I ordered a glass of Sauvignon Blanc (only $5!) and the glass was filled to the brim.  My friends had a few draft beers and we sat outside at a picnic table and chatted, people-watched, petted a few dogs and listened to the DJ scratching and turning some tunes.  And then it was time for a Showdown…

Inside the Common Market in Southend — beer & wine by the glass — and groceries

The Common Market is not your run-of-the-mill convenience store.

Although I tried to persuade my friends to follow me to NoDa — they were not interested.  So, I bolted and drove across town to make the announcement of the winners.  Perfect early autumn weather had encouraged a lot of people to come out tonight — so it was difficult to find a parking space — and in all the mayhem, a motorcyclist had been hit by a car right out in front of the Hart Witzen gallery.  Crowds had gathered.  After I parked I found someone who had witnessed the accident — the motorcyclist was okay, and appeared to be more shook up than injured.   Whew!

Inside, the crowd was anxious to hear who the winners were.  It was 10pm, straight up.  Folks were clustered around the music duo that was performing in the center of the gallery — they were using the microphone where the winning entries would be announced.  I walked around some more, as the artwork had fewer onlookers than the weekend prior and I decided, once again, that my #1 favorite was Osiris Rain’s “Thriae” oil painting of a stoic girl in a lace dress, arms tied with gold bands against a silver foil background.  On Facebook, as he is a “friend”, I had watched this painting take shape,- the artist posting his progress almost daily — maybe that’s why I liked it so much.  I voted again.

My favorite, by Osiris Rain

There were other pieces that I enjoyed, too.  And since the 10pm announcement was running behind (it was now 10:10pm), I decided to look some more.

Cher Cosper’s Beach scape

Jason Basden’s Queen Alligator piece

Lydia J. Goldbeck’s work

I like this one, too — nice palette knife work — but didn’t get the name of the artist. Sorry.

I joined the crowd again — watched the performers and texted my boyfriend.  He was wanting to know who won also.  He had met Osiris at a painting session at the artists studio a few weeks prior.  It was 10:25pm now……starting to get impatient.  And then, I got a hug.

Free Hugs from Christina — The Hugging Documentary

I received a brochure from the hugger, and the mission statement printed said “A social and human interest story based on creating change with positive intention”.  I can get behind that statement.  And I appreciated the hug.

The performing duo stopped — the crowd tightened — winners were going to be announced any minute……..drum roll……

Not a lot of intro — a woman walked up to the mic, situated it so it was at the right height and spat out the winners.

First Place goes to Marvin Espy.  2nd Place is Osiris Rain, and 3rd Place is Lydia J. Goldbeck.  And that’s it.  Showdown over.

Marvin Espy’s winning entries at Showdown 3, Hart Witzen Gallery, Charlotte, NC

I

Cajun, Showdown, Pastry — in that order

A NOTE TO MY FOLLOWERS & READERS — In my blog, I’ve added a lot of additional content by hyperlinks — click on any gray colored word or words, in the text, and you will immediately be linked to additional information on that topic.  I try to make my blog as rich and as informative as possible.  So please, read, click, and enjoy. 

Charlotte’s art scene is changing.  Getting better?  Well, it’s trying.  But at NoDA (North Davidson Street), where there were numerous galleries from the mid ’80’s into the millennium, now there are only a handful left.  High rents, the recession, and the 2010 closing of the gallery that started it all – Center of the Earth Gallery — NoDa is now more of a music and bar hotspot for the city.  There are still a few good galleries in NoDa – and we’ll visit one this evening, but I always enjoy going there, and I continue to be amazed at how many Charlotteans have never even driven through the area.  YOU GOTTA CHECK NODA OUT, FOLKS!

A good friend of mine, her 16-year-old daughter and a Davidson College student from China, met me for dinner at Boudreaux’s — my favorite Cajun restaurant in Charlotte  (I requested Boudreaux’s for my birthday dinner when I turned 49, so that tells you what I think of this place).  My friend has only been to NoDa a few times, and the two girls have never been.  The sketchy elements that surround this neighborhood gave my friend pause — I suggested they walk around the area a bit — as I was running late.  They decided to just get a table and forgo the exploring.  But that’s what an “arts district” usually feels like in a city…”sketchy” (good art term).

When I arrived, the parking lots and bars were already filling up for the evening — it was 6:15pm on a Saturday night and the weather was getting a bit cooler, so everyone was coming out for a good time.   People were congregating outside The Neighborhood Theatre  for a concert (my favorite music venue in Charlotte, by the way), and also at The Evening Muse (I’ve always wanted to go there), catty-corner from Boudreaux’s.   A few musicians were performing outside as well, you could hear the faint strum of a guitar in the crowd, and across the street at The Dog Bar, the outdoor patio was packed with leashed and unleashed patrons.

Boudreaux’s – at the corner of 36th Street and North Davidson Street, Charlotte, NC

The restaurant gives off a nice vibe of New Orleans — the colors are rich inside (lots of purple and yellow) and I don’t know why, but any place that has metal roofing as décor says “Delta” to me.  Now, I’ve never been to N.O., but I understand the feel of it — and this Louisiana kitchen doesn’t overdo it like some Cajun places I’ve been to – there aren’t clusters of beads dangling from every fixture, nor are there any Carnival masks staring at you from the walls.  With high ceilings, a few tasteful pieces of art on the colorful walls, they keep it simple.  It’s the food that takes center stage here.  And I always order Etoufee — I like the way it rolls out of my mouth when I say it.  Eh-TOO-Fey.  And I love the way it tastes in my mouth, too.  Eh-TOO-yummy!

And NOW…..the posting of FOOD PHOTOS! — let the mouth-watering begin! (My friend also ordered the Peach Mojito — I had a taste — looks like a salad, tasted like a minty peach!)

Shrimp & Crawfish Etoufee – $15

Shrimp Creole – $15 & Peach Mojito

Bourbon Fried Chicken with gumbo on the side – $12

Fried Shrimp with rice & beans – $16

Boudreaux’s Louisiana Kitchen is always good — I’ve probably eaten here a dozen times and I’ve never been disappointed by the quality, value, flavor or service.  Dessert was being saved for our 3rd stop later in the evening.

Time for a Showdown!  Just a few city blocks to the west of Boudreux’s, over some railroad tracks, and in a huge brick building that reminds me of an elementary school from the 50’s, is Hart Witzen Gallery,  where there’s an annual show for artists called “Showdown” — this was the 3rd year of the competition and the public gets to vote during the week the pieces are on exhibit.  The winner receives $1000, 2nd place gets $250 and 3rd gets $100.  Tonight is the opening reception and the following Friday is the closing reception when the winners are announced.  This is a unique, gigantic gallery that’s still thriving in NoDa (enduring mostly because of its diversified business methods, I presume — rather than just trying to survive off commissions made from art that sells — which is a difficult way to make a living — artists pay rent for their exhibits, and there are 18 studios on the perimeter of the building for rent.  AND the public can rent the space for events, like weddings.  Very smart).

Showdown Postcard

List of Artists – Showdown 3

This year, there were 63 artists on the roster — and easily over 100 pieces displayed.  I think the artists could submit up to 3 pieces, and there were a lot that had at least 2.  Most appeared to be local artists, but I only recognized about 6 names — 2 were Facebook friends of mine (smile).

Showdown 3

There was a long line at the cash bar and live music filled the gallery along with throngs of people.  Everyone loves to vote — to have their say — so no wonder there was a good crowd.  This was one of the liveliest art gallery receptions that I had been to in a long while.  It was so busy, there was a challenge to view every piece — some folks just camped out in front of the artwork, dead center — unmoving as they gawked at their favorite.  Small groups chatted in front of a painting without taking notice of anyone else around them.  No complaints — this is all good, as all too often, only a few people will actually be engaged with the artwork while the rest will be gathered around the refreshments.  There was a queue at two pieces of art — they were so intricately drawn — like a “Horton Hears a Who” world on paper and the artist thoughtfully supplied a magnifying glass so you could get a closer look.  The energy and enthusiasm were palpable and tonight it felt like Charlotte had an artful soul, for a change.

Art with magnifying glass Included.  How thoughtful.

Here are our favorites of the night.

My favorite, “Thriae”  by Osiris Rain – FB friend and local artist

My Friend’s Favorite — she liked the essence of trees in this abstract

Colorful piece that my friend’s daughter picked

Seascape – the student from Hong Kong loved this!

We placed our votes for our favorite artists and headed for our dessert destination. Just south of our location, is Amelie’s French Bakery , one of the most unusual places in Charlotte — I often forget how cool it is — and every time I go, no matter what time of day or night, it’s packed.  (I wish I’d thought of that!)   If I lived closer, and weighed only 100 pounds, I’d visit Amelie’s daily.  (I think I was French in another life.  No joke).

Amelie’s Beverage Board

Amelie’s French Bakery is located at the southern edge of NoDa — back towards Uptown on N. Davidson Street.  It’s housed in a large brick complex with some other businesses.  Parking is easy with a large lot on site, and although it appears full most of the time, spaces do free up quickly.  Open 24/7 every day of the year, Amelie’s is always busy.  They have indoor and outdoor seating, old sofas and comfy chairs in conversation arrangements, FREE Wi-Fi, and small rooms you can rent for meetings or special occasions.  The place winds in and around and is loaded with unusual flea market finds turned into wonderful French-like décor.  Chandelier’s made out of kitchen utensils, tables with decoupage, mosaic rimmed mirrors, old oil paintings in gaudy picture frames, and other unique creations that someone spent a lot of time assembling.  Folks are studying their laptops with a coffee in hand, relaxing on a cushy chair with their iPhones and earbuds in place, and several groups engaged in banter over a gameboard spread out on the table.

That looks very French to me!

Hey there Matisse!

The pastry case has got to be at least 15 feet long and has everything you can imagine that a French bakery would offer.  Flaky and buttery croissants, colorful macaroons, chocolate mousse cups with delicate toppings, tarts of every kind, dense cakes with thick frosting, little colorful petit fours  — the list goes on and on — and you can see in the kitchen that the baking continues non-stop.  Beverages that are offered include coffee – hot or cold, espressos, teas, juices, and sodas.  But no liquor.  Which keeps the place from feeling like a bar.  It’s a gathering spot, or a quiet study locale, or a place you can come and stuff yourself with divine French pastry.  Which is what I like to do.

Chocolate Mousse Cups & Colorful Macaroons

Tarts — fruit, cream, nut, chocolate — your pick!

Croissants, Palmierre’s, Turnovers…..the list goes on

Feeling like you’re in Paris at Amelie’s, Charlotte, NC

A chandelier — made from everything, except the kitchen sink.

The line was long — of course, but it moves quickly.  And it also gives you time to decide what you want.  This is a place where indecisiveness rules the roost.  Such a struggle to decide what to order!  I ended up just getting my favorite thing — a Palmierre (flaky puff pastry curled into a heart shape with crispy sugar) and a mini dark chocolate and raspberry mousse cup.  I also enjoyed an iced mocha coffee — spending less than $10 and worth every penny.  By the time I remembered to take a photo of it, I had devoured everything.  So, here’s what a Palmierre looks like. (I have made them, too — relatively easy to make, but I like eating them better).

Palmierre — c’est si bon!

We ate out in the atrium.

My friends and I gathered in the atrium  — or courtyard — in the center of the building to eat our French treats and chat for a bit.  The girls had chocolate cake and macaroons and my friend had an apricot tart — all of which met the mean end of a fork before I could take a photo (sorry).

But maybe that just entices you more to visit Amelie’s.  And don’t forget NoDa, while you are at it.  The Showdown winners are next.  So, stay tuned….

Florida Hwy 60 — going home

Heading home after a great vacation is always a little depressing.  The day before you have to go home, AND especially, the day of final departure, seem to slow down and linger.   You try to make every moment count and you become quieter — soaking in the nuances of every experience.  But we all have to get back to our every day lives, don’t we?

We woke up to another gorgeous sunny day and spent a few hours on the silky sand beach at Clearwater in the morning.  The surf was mild and the sky was clear.  We watched pods of pelicans elegantly fly inches from the surface of the water, then swooping up sharply before crashing into the water to scoop up some fish.  They dove so haphazardly, as if one of their wings failed  — but it was a planned attack.  Just not as pretty as their gliding skills.

Pelican Pod — hunting party

The trip to Florida’s gulf coast was only for a few days, but memorable indeed.  We had our 50 pounds of fish on ice in the back of the truck as we headed back to Central Florida, where I would board a plane to Charlotte in 36 hours.  We checked out of our hotel at noon and headed east.  We were going to stop at a remarkable and historic place for lunch.  I couldn’t wait!!!

The Columbia Restaurant has been in Ybor City for over 100 years — since 1905.  And the history of the place is rich with stories!  Still owned by the founding family (5th generation), the original building has grown to the size of a city block.  Cuban cuisine, with the Spanish influence fills their delectable menu.  Before the trip, I looked up their menu online – my mouth watered just reading the fare offered here — 11 pages of delicious food — and that’s just the lunch menu!  I knew I’d have difficulty deciding what to order when the time came.

The Columbia sign on the exterior — gorgeous handpainted tiles!

The restaurant is easy to find, just north of Hwy 60 minutes east of Tampa.  Ybor City has a colorful past — it’s where cigars were made and immigrants from Cuba, Spain and Italy have flavored this manufacturing town with a unique taste.  The Columbia Restaurant building looks like it’s straight off a historical street in Havana!

The Columbia Restaurant – Ybor City, Florida

The exterior of The Columbia Restaurant is adorned with colorful ceramic tiles, bricks, stucco and ironwork — and the decor gets even more elaborate when you go inside — and interesting artwork everywhere. The mosaics of this place are gorgeous!

Mosaic at The Columbia — one of dozens that fill the walls

Antiques fill the rooms, and a giant chandelier is prominent in one of the dining rooms (hung in 1940, the hostess tells us).   There are 3 main dining areas, so we asked for a brief tour of the dining rooms to decide where we’d sit, and our hostess obliged.  There’s a smaller and darker bar area called “The Café” which was the original restaurant, the formal dining room “The Don Quixote” with the chandelier, and “The Patio” which has a high glass ceiling, like a solarium.  We chose The Patio for our dining experience. There were other small banquet rooms we did not see (for smaller parties), and we did not go upstairs, but the hostess told us they could seat up to 1,700 people at one time — and it felt relatively full for this Saturday lunch crowd!  I can imagine the energy on special occasions, like New Years Eve, when I’m sure they are slammed with reservations weeks ahead of time.

The Don Quixote Dining Room

The Patio Dining Room

All of the wait staff wear tuxedo’s — and compose themselves with dignity.  This is a career for most of them, I’m sure….not just a part-time job, or a summer stint.  But what a pleasure to serve such delectable food to an excited crowd of ever-changing patrons.  White table cloths, and beautiful tableware — elegance abounds at The Columbia!  (Of course, I wore a dress and heels for this special lunch —  I’m always amazed at how people dress nowadays — some folks looked like they just got off a rollercoaster at Disneyworld with big white tennis shoes, shorts and a t-shirt.  How did we become so sloppy and inappropriate?).

As we opened the menu, I started to panic — I wanted everything!!!  They served each one of us a large loaf of Cuban bread wrapped divinely in white paper.  The super crusty outside of the bread splintered shards all over, as we tore into it — spreading whipped butter on the tasty pieces.  WOW!  I could just eat this bread…..and be happy.  I watched at one of our neighboring tables as a little girl, maybe 5 years old, grabbed her 10″ loaf and chomped on it like a sandwich.  She ate the whole thing in short order.  The best free bread I have ever eaten.  I’m not kidding.

Back to the menu.  I couldn’t decide.  They had Tapas with luscious seafood — shrimp, fish, lobster, oh my!  My boyfriend knew he wanted pork and although I suggested a Tapas combo for two, it would be expensive (3 dishes for $29 and that wouldn’t be enough) and we always have to consider dessert…..it was one of the most difficult menus to navigate.  Everything looked so good!

Finally, I decided on the Scalllops Casimiro Tapas for $12 and a Caesar Salad for $4 — I could’ve broke the bank, but decided I’d come back some day and order more — keeping it a simple lunch was tough (besides, I also had a giant loaf of bread to eat!).  My boyfriend ordered the Roast Pork Ala Cubana – served with rice, beans and plantains for $13.

Scallops Casimiro

Roast Pork Ala Cubana

The Caesar Salad was quite large for a side salad, with lots of cheese, and although my dish of scallops was small, they were tangy and sweet and had a buttery white wine sauce to dip my bread in and sop it up.  The plate of food my boyfriend received was a dinner portion!  He hummed as he ate, so I knew it was good.  I snuck one of his fried plantains and a bite of tender pork.  Good stuff!

The desserts were exciting!  Flan, of course, is always one of my favorites, and the bread pudding looked fantastic (but I just had a loaf and more bread cancelled that one out).  We decided on the  “Carmita — Guava Turnover” for $7.  Holy cow!  One order was enough for both of us!  The fried turnover had a sugared coating, and inside, there was a yummy cream cheese and guava puree filling. swimming in a vanilla bean sauce — I wanted to lick the plate!

Carmita – Guava Turnover

I didn’t overstuff myself, but felt satisfied and happy with this elegant dining experience.  Once again, thanks to my boyfriend for birddogging this place for the trip!  We found out later that his father used to bring clients to The Columbia when they lived in the Tampa area (he was a young boy then — but this was his first visit to the restaurant).  If you are near Tampa — within an hour — go eat here!  It’s truly a unique restaurant that won’t disappoint — visually, historically, or gastronomically.

As we left, we spent some time poking around the restaurant — there are lots of nice paintings on the walls of family members and landscapes.  Photos of early years line the hallways — black and white images of the owners and patrons.  Framed newspaper articles about the history of the establishment.  The back staircase was laden with thousands of glazed tiles — I can’t begin to think about how many man hours went in to laying all those tiles!  The effect was old world and rich.

One of the Hernandez Ladies

The Back Staircase at The Columbia — a work of art

As a side note, I found this blurb on the restaurants website — an appropriate notation about Red Grouper (see my last blog, Hwy 60 — West — Part II)

2011 – The Columbia Restaurant has added grouper to their menu again at their six restaurants in Florida after a four year absence. “We took grouper off our menu back in May of 2007 due to overfishing, which led to the difficulty in meeting the demand for authentic grouper,” said Richard Gonzmart. “According to the National Marine Fisheries Service, red grouper is harvested in the Gulf of Mexico, and the red grouper population is healthy and is harvested at sustainable levels,” Gonzmart said. “We are proud to once again offer our guests classic and unique Columbia preparations of this delicious mild fish with five red grouper entrees on our new dinner menu,” Gonzmart said.

Florida Hwy 60 — West — Part II

Day two on the gulf coast of Florida began early.  We boarded a fishing vessel in Clearwater, The Daisy Mae, at 6:30am to go catch some Red Grouper.

Typically I write about art and art galleries to start my blog, but trust me — that’s coming later.  I am putting food first today.   And fishing.

Captain Eric and Mate Alex greeted us and made us feel at home on the 45 foot craft — you could live on this boat!  It had everything.  The other two fisherman that joined us were on vacation from Kansas — they had never chartered a fishing boat either and were excited to see what we’d catch.  We weren’t venturing out far today — 20 miles at the most — because that’s where the grouper are hanging out.  Which is unusual.  This has been an unprecedented grouper season — on every trip the patrons of this boat are catching their legal limit — 4 fish per person, 20″ long or more.  That kind of fishing hasn’t happened in over 50 years — especially for Red Grouper. The photos on the Daisy Mae Facebook page showed day after day, after day, of large grouper catches.  And that made it easy to choose this boat for my first ever ocean fishing trip.

Sunrise on the gulf, Clearwater, Florida

I have always wanted to go on a fishing charter out to sea to catch something big.  Ever since my older brother caught a sailfish in Mexico when I was 9, I have wanted to do this.  I was not allowed on that trip and was always so bummed about it.  I remember pouting, sunburnt and covered in Zinc Oxide at the resort in Mazatlan, while he was fishing all day — and then he caught a sailfish which ended up hanging in our home!  What a trophy!

Growing up, I was my Grandfather’s little fishing buddy — we fished for pan-size Rainbow Trout in Colorado in the Big Thompson River where the family cabin was.  We carried them home in our wicker fishing baskets, dredged them in yellow cornmeal and fried them up in a cast iron skillet, eating them for breakfast.   He used to take me fishing near Superior, Nebraska when I was very little — we fished for Bullheads, a small black catfish, on the “cricks” of Nuckolls County — the Little Blue River and Sandy Creek.  He always talked about fishing trips he’d been on in the ocean near his home in Laguna Beach, California.  We only went fishing once in California, on a pier, when I was 5, and we caught an Ocean Perch that had a dozen babies in front of my eyes.  No one believed me that I saw eyes on the belly of that fish, until the babies came spewing out.

My boyfriend, being raised in Florida, and living all over the U.S. (Maryland, California, North Carolina), had been on many ocean fishing voyages.  He has caught a lot of fish in his life.  I was just hoping this trip would rival the other experiences he had fishing.  And he knows how much I like to fish, too — he bought me a pink fishing pole shortly after we met, and we have fished together in North Carolina and Florida.  Blue Gill, some small Bass and few pond trout is what I’ve caught in the last few years — freshwater varieties.  This was going to be some serious saltwater fishing today,

Getting ready to stop, anchor and fish!

Now — I get sea-sick.  I know I do, and I hate it, and I worry about it, and I try to combat it.  But I have it bad.  I was always the kid growing up that got car sick, too.  But, here’s the rub.  I like water.  I like boats.  And damn it, I was going on this trip and I was going to push past this seasickness thing.  I took Dramamine the night before and also when I got up.  I tried not to eat too much, either — no fried food the night before, just a cup of coffee when I woke up.  But it happened anyway….as soon as the boat slowed down 10 miles from shore, that feeling of wooziness started creepy up on me.  So, I snuck down to the belly of the boat, quietly, and found the head.  One more bout of that and I was over it.  And ready to fish.  I was so excited to get that bait in the water and catch something big, I pushed that sea-sick demon aside and enjoyed the day.

From about 8am to 1pm all four patrons of this charter fished NON-STOP!  We threw in bait after bait (4″ frozen herring) and reeled up fish after fish.  My boyfriend caught something called a “Lizard Fish”, too — back in it went.  And then one of the guys from Kansas hooked something big — a shark!  We never got a perfect look at it, just the white shape of it when it was about 2 feet under water, but it looked like a 6 foot Nurse Shark.  It finally broke the line and was gone.  I hooked something gigantic after that — we suspect it was a shark, too, but never got it close enough to the boat to see its shape.  My boyfriend took my pole and attempted to reel it in, but whatever it was, it was swimming back and forth, and under the boat and was taking line with it.  The Captain suspected it was another shark, maybe 8 feet or more, based on its movement and strength.  It was the “big one” that got away!  (The movie “Jaws” was on all of our minds).

By 1:30pm, we all caught our limit of 4 legal sized grouper — 16 total.  And on our way back we trolled and caught five Spanish Mackerel and two Bonito (Bonito is not the best eating fish, very bloody — but it was a pretty fish with iridescent blue squiggles on it’s back and shiny silver skin).

The catch — 16 grouper, 5 Spanish Mackerel and 2 Bonita — and the Daisy Mae

Now here’s the food part!  The two guys from Kansas didn’t want their catch.  They were flying back home the next morning and weren’t interested in paying to ship it home.  So –they gave us their fish.   We had close to 60 pounds of fish filets coming home with us!  My boyfriend had thought ahead (he’s so good about that) and brought a large cooler in his truck.  The plan?  Pack it all in ice and haul it home.  We were going to be rich with luscious grouper filets for months to come, and that’s one of the best white, flaky and tasty fish you can eat.  It was on sale at the local Publix grocery store for $21/pound.  The Mackerel was earmarked to be smoked and made into Smoked Fish Dip — a wonderful appetizer that I made with trout several months prior and it was a big hit with everyone who tried it.  This trip was a bargain!  We spent $500 for the charter, and were taking home over $1,000 worth of fish!  And it was our dinner tonight!  My boyfriend also brought a small grill and some side dishes (corn and Zataran’s beans and rice).  We were eating dockside at the Sea Captain Resort in Clearwater, Florida.  The freshest fish dinner I’ve had in years!

Grilled Grouper — fresh fish dinner!

Grouper Dinner!

View from our picnic table at the Sea Captain Resort

Tired from a long day of fishing (my right arm pit was bruised from the pole jabbing it all day!) we ate our grouper and enjoyed the sunset with a hopeful onlooker (he got some fish scrap for dinner).

Hungry Blue Heron

After dinner, we walked to the beach —  Clearwater Beach, and Pier 60 (where Hwy 60 dead ends into the gulf) where they hold a daily Sunset Festival.  It was a gorgeous evening, and the crowd had gathered, to watch performance artists eat fire and juggle, caricature artists draw, and lamp work artists sculpt with glass while live music played all around us — bands at one end, individual acoustic musicians dotted around elsewhere.  A large white screen had been erected at one side of the park for a free movie — “Back to the Future, Part 2” was playing tonight.

Pier 60 Daily Festival

We walked the length of the pier where crafts and art were lined up for sale.  We stopped and talked at length to one artist, Edmond Frechmann, who has been selling at this daily festival for over a decade.  He chose local subject matter to paint and draw — palm trees, fish, birds, sunsets on the beach.  Colorful and marketable art for visitors and residents of this coastal town.

Edmond Frechmann,  Acrylic on Canvas, Landscape with White Heron

Prints by Edmond Frechmann — reasonably priced

Overall, this day will be one of my most memorable.  We found some colorful Adirondack chairs on the silky sand at the Hilton Beachfront Tiki Bar, sipped on cold Blueberry Rum beverages and reminisced about our fishing adventure and how darn good fresh fish dinner can be.

Florida Hwy 60 — Heading West — Part I

It was time to head to the gulf coast of Florida for a few days.  Again, my boyfriend had scoped out the area a few weeks prior and knew where to go and what to see.  (He’s a terrific travel planner!).

Our first stop was The Dali Museum in St. Petersburg and we arrived right at opening time, 10:00am.   There was already a line and a bus full of what appeared to be high school students on a field trip (Don’t you remember those?  We lived for field trips!).    One drawback folks — no photos allowed of the original art.  Sorry.

The Dali Museum, St. Petersburg, Florida

The Dali Museum – a sculptural building the artist would be proud of

A few from inside the Dali Museum, 3rd floor

I assumed that Dali must’ve lived or visited St. Petersburg, Florida to have such a presence in this city, but I was wrong.  The city of St. Petersburg bid and won the opportunity to house a large collection of Dali art that Reynolds and Eleanor Morse owned — Colorado natives that bought their first painting, Daddy Long Legs of the Evening Hope in March 1943 at an exhibit of Dali’s work in Cleveland, Ohio.  In April of 1943 they met the artist and his wife, Gala, in New York.  This began a life long friendship of respect and admiration and culminated in a huge collection of Dali originals.

There are scheduled tours with a docent of the gallery, or self-guided audio tours (free of charge) — but we decided to peruse the gallery on our own and gawk at the odd, whimsical, amazing and sometimes hilarious pieces at our leisure.   What I really appreciated, was the chronological order that the pieces were arranged in — you could see his progression as a painter, trying the “art of the day”, dabbling in impressionism, then trying his hand at cubism and fauvist styles, working on some realism, still life’s, and then you see how his patterned paintbrush strokes start evolving into his surrealistic style.

There’s a point, in every painters life, where they find their own, unique style.  And it’s usually in one, single painting, that the style turns on a dime.  That moment is a most memorable one for the artist, and a sometimes confusing one for the folks around them, because the artist explodes in a new direction, and they start creating in a way that no one else has experienced, or seen.  It’s not always met with understanding and excitement from onlookers (and critiques will usually be harsh) — but the artist knows — they know they’ve found something new.  A creative style all their own, and they erupt.  You can see, at this museum, by the progression of Dali’s pieces, where this happens.   And then the artist goes wild!

In “Girl with Curls”, 1926, you see the artist starting to play with line, form and fluid motion in his figure.  That oozy, drippy quality of his subject matter starts appearing regularly from this painting forward.

My favorite piece of the day was a huge canvas, maybe 10 feet x 20 feet, called “The Hallucinogenic Toreador” — I could look at it for hours, days….weeks….years.  I took a picture of it, in poster form, in the gallery gift shop.  And I bought a magnet for my fridge to commemorate the piece in my home.  (I collect magnets on my travels – kinda kitschy, but it started many years ago).

The Hallucinogenic Toreador

If you are ever in the Tampa/St. Pete/Clearwater area — please check this museum out!  Entrance is kind of expensive, $21 for adults, but you can find coupons in travel magazines in the stands at grocery stores, for a few dollars off each admission.  But it was worth it to see such a master painter, one that had such an imagination.

We drove through St. Petersburg downtown afterwards — what an art-centered community!  Galleries everywhere (I think I’ll move here)!  Some appeared to be closed for the afternoon and a little sleepy, but we did stop at a quirky fine art store/gallery/frame shop called Davidson Fine Art, Inc. — a huge rhino was out in front of the place and it beckoned for us to come inside.

Davidson Fine Art Gallery/Supplies/Frame Shop, St. Petersburg, FL

The place smelled like paint and graphite and a hint of linseed oil — what a lovely aroma!  We checked out some decent works on the wall, and my boyfriend purchased some paint and a few canvases (3 for 1 — on sale!) and we enjoyed chatting with the manager for a few minutes.   Nice place.  Good prices.  Cool downtown.  (bookmark for future visit)

Lunchtime!  My boyfriend knows my taste and affinity for retro style, so we drove to Treasure Island and the Bilmar Beach Resort for a bite to eat at Sloppy Joe’s on the Beach.  (Yes — the same Sloppy Joe’s as in Key West.  I guess it’s a chain.  Appears there’s one in Daytona, too.  I doubt Hemingway ate here, though).

Bilmar Beach Resort, Treasure Island, Florida

Sloppy Joes on the Beach, Bilmar Beach Resort

We chose to stay out on the patio under the umbrella’s for lunch, but we did watch many tourists sit here, only to discover the patio was too hot for them….they moved indoors.  To us, it was a perfect beach setting — an intense blue sky, some cirrus clouds streaking by and a nice, gentle sea breeze.  The menu was packed with good items, and I ordered the fish tacos — my boyfriend, unknowingly, ordered the largest hotdog on the planet — holy cow!  Smothered in chili and topped with handfuls of cheese, this footlong was the biggest sandwich I’d seen in a long time!  And homemade potato chips to boot.  Wow!  My fish tacos were light and delicately flavored — and fresh.  And it allowed me to have a bite of that hotdog and a few chips — to assist my boyfriend out, you know.

Fish Taco’s at Sloppy Joe’s

Largest hotdog on the planet — on a platter — not a plate

It was time to check into our hotel (up the coast in Clearwater), and maybe have a nap.  Maybe.  Heading back to the truck, I snapped a couple photos of the massive beach here at Treasure Island — no wonder the pirates hung out here.

See the umbrella’s in the distance?? Treasure Island Beach, Florida

I could nap here……

Florida Hwy 60 — East — Part II

The one hour trip back towards Central Florida went fast — after such a great morning and afternoon in the Vero Beach area, we were winding down for the day.  We had a few stops to make before going back to the house — including purchasing some Powerball Lottery tickets ($400 Million on the line) and visiting my boyfriends uncle at The Groves Center, a senior living home in Lake Wales where he has lived for nearly a decade.

As we entered the town of Lake Wales, we saw a character waving a sign on the side of the road — not a pizza sign twirler (Who thought of that job anyway? Probably the same marketing guru that thought of a guy in a poncho and sombrero waving you in for tacos.),  it was an ice cream sign squire with “$1.00 Cones” being advertised.  We swooped into Topper’s Creamery drive-thru to take advantage of this special (the sign twirling worked!).   Plus, who wouldn’t want to eat at a place shaped like an ice cream cone?  Cool.

Toppers Ice Cream – Lake Wales, Florida

Now — I’ve had a lot of soft serve ice cream in my days — but this was the most dense, thick and creamy stuff I have ever tasted!  (You know, a lot of soft serve is watery and air-filled — very loose and drippy….not Topper’s! — It’s even better than DQ!)  I ordered a vanilla/chocolate swirl and my boyfriend got the straight chocolate (his favorite flavor), and $2 later, we were quiet and content with our sweet treat of the day.  Awesome ice cream!

We grabbed a hot coffee for my boyfriends uncle — he often asks for special treats and “good” coffee is one of his requests.  He’s a sweet man — with a keen sense of humor, and a darn good disposition considering his situation.  He has asked for sardines before, and loves to play the lottery — so that he has a few numbers to watch for the big prize.  Wouldn’t it be terrific if he won?

This story of mine is really a tale in where to find good art — or where it should be placed.  Or maybe, I just want people to notice it in their everyday surroundings.  I did not want to write a blog about good ice cream, but I wanted to mention a place where I saw good art in an unexpected location….a necessary location.  This is a brief lesson on how important art can be in a day-to-day basis — in a mundane environment — and to answer the question “what is the purpose of art?” Have you ever been in an office or a home where the walls are bare?  How did that place make you feel?  Or a hospital room with nothing but mechanical beds and stark walls that stare back at patients all day?  I know that the art I saw on this day made me stop — and look, and recreate fresh memories of my drive to the beach just that same morning.  But what does this art do for the folks that are here waiting?  Waiting for the end.

In the hallways of The Groves Center there are murals by a local landscape artist Tom Freeman, who is still painting, teaching and creating today in the Lake Wales area.   There are scenes of Sandhill cranes, adults and chicks, and Florida scrub with a delicate impressionistic brush stroke.  Ponds and flat grasslands, and palm trees stretching tall to the sky in twilight hues.  Does anyone take notice of this on a day-to-day basis?  Rushing by with tasks at hand that are on a timed basis, or visitors making the obligatory trip to check on loved ones that are shadows of themselves.   I am positive there are patients, the ones who are wheeled into the hallways to sit and wait for each day to end and start another, often gaze into these beautiful sceneries and daydream of better days gone by.  Someone had an exceptional idea when they asked this artist to paint in the halls of this often dismal building.  The pictures add serenity, color, beauty– and recollections.

Sandhill Cranes Mural, Tom Freeman

Palms & Pond Mural, Tom Freeman

Florida Interior, Tom Freeman

Florida Hwy 60 — Heading East — Part I

FL Hwy 60 East – runs from coast to coast in the center of the state

On day two of my vacation in Florida, we headed east at 8am.  Florida’s Hwy 60 runs directly east, and west, to both coasts, Atlantic and Gulf, from Frostproof, which is one of the small towns near my boyfriends home.  (Don’t you love the name of that town?…..”Frostproof” — gives you a secure feeling that you will never be cold ever again, if you live here!).

Frostproof has history going back to 1850 when a fort was installed there for settlers — Fort Clinch  — the little downtown is quaint, small and old, and is flanked on both sides by lakes.  On main street, there’s an art gallery, The Frostproof Art League & Gallery — it was too early in the morning to check it out, but my boyfriend just joined as a member and will be involved with the “goings-on” soon.

Frostproof Downtown, with hitching posts, not parking meters

We stopped at the coolest retro diner in Frostproof called “The Orange Grove” — it hasn’t been remodeled since 1950, I don’t think — and they are old school — no website.  My boyfriend has wanted to check this place out since he moved here last spring, so we grabbed an egg sandwich for the road and perused their menu.  Typical diner stuff….burgers, meatloaf, fish dinners, etc. but all the things we love at a hometown restaurant — home cooking like Grandma used to make!  (Mark this place for a future visit).  We jumped back in the truck, and ate our sandwich — two drippy fried eggs, several pieces of crispy bacon and a thick slice of cheese between buttered toast.  Perfect road food!

The Orange Grove, Frostproof, FL

We were heading to Vero Beach for the day — about an hour from Frostproof.  We passed large cattle ranches which brought up familiar memories for me travelling as a kid – being from Nebraska — many trips spent looking out the window for hours at nothing but vast farmland.  However, the cattle here looked to be of different breeds (not Guernsey or Angus – but shorthorn varieties with thick, smooth hides and Brahma style bovine with large humps on their backs) — they grazed next to white “tick” birds (Egrets) with palm trees, shallow ponds and Florida scrub dotting the pastures.  As we drove, it appeared less familiar than what I experienced growing up in the Midwest — it looked like any minute a Tyrannosaurus Rex might join those cattle.  It’s unusual landscape for sure.  And as I’ve said before, this is NOT a place most people experience when they visit this state.  They gravitate to the outer edges of Florida to the beaches and never venture more than a mile or two inland.  Or they fly right into Orlando and focus on Disneyworld’s fantasy land.  They do not see the middle — where cattle farms and produce fields dominate the landscape.  This is OLD Florida.

By 9:30am we were on the beach.  Hwy. 60 runs right into a beach called “South Beach” — but unlike Miami’s of the same name, you can park for free at a well-manicured public park with nice restrooms and picnic tables, then walk through some natural dunes which then open up to a pretty stretch of pebbly sand and very few visitors.  We had storm clouds building to the south and more to the north of us, but our patch of paradise was free of rain.  Let the sun bathing begin!

South Beach – near Vero Beach, FL

We spent about two hours here, enjoying the crashing surf and watching the rain clouds dance around us, and we walked the beach combing for treasures, but finding nothing of interest.  I tried to swim, but the breakers were fierce — and my attempt left me tumbled, out of breath and my suit filled with sand.  (I’m sure the lifeguard was watching closely to see the if this old gal was going to drown or not).  Breathless and shook up a bit, I regained my composure and dried off —  that exhilarating “swim” (or near drowning) made me hungry.  Time for lunch!!

Earlier in the summer, my boyfriend had scoped this beach out and found a great place to eat — Waldo’s at the Driftwood Resort.  We drove into Vero Beach downtown, parked, and walked along some cute boutique shops (super cute!) and ended up at our destination for lunch.  There’s a small art gallery at the entrance to the Inn, someone local that sells paintings there, but it was closed.

The decor of The Driftwood Resort is quite unique.  Found objects adorn the exterior—things that look like they’ve been washed ashore from an old shipwreck.  Huge verdigris covered bells everywhere….old crusty iron work, gnarly pieces of driftwood, odd glass sculptures, chains that used to hold giant anchors.  There are darling little cottages you can rent, called “Snapper” and “Dolphin” — all looking like they’ve been hit by sea spray for eons. Charming place.  So much to look at.

Driftwood Inn – found stuff adorning the exterior

Driftwood Resort Cottage “Snapper”

View from our table at Waldo’s, Driftwood Resort

We settled in to a nice outdoor table facing the ocean.  There is a large American flag straight ahead of us, about a mile out to sea…..we are told by the waiter that this is a sunken ship — immersed on purpose for a reef.  There are other stories he tells of airplanes sunk nearby and events that go on off-shore, and of a woman losing her leg to a shark out there, not too long ago.  Always lovely to hear.

The menu at Waldo’s was filled with seafood dishes and your regular bar/grill items – nachos, wraps, sandwiches, lots of fried stuff, and I was tempted by the “Mountain of Mushrooms” — which were fried, also, but I was more in the mood for a salad AND seafood and settled on the Hawaiian Salad (which had scallops and shrimp) with a tangy Asian vinaigrette.  My boyfriend chose the Chicken Salad Sandwich with fries — a light meal for him, but he knew that grilled rib-eye steaks would be for dinner at his place later.  Both were perfect for a mid-day meal at the beach while gazing at the blue of the Atlantic.  Very nice.

Hawaiian Salad – Waldo’s, Driftwood Resort

Mahi-Mahi Sandwich at Waldo’s, Driftwood Resort

After lunch, I was anxious to walk the little boutique shops again  — Vero Beach exudes a kind of chic and clean feel about it.  It’s hey-day was probably in the 1940’s or 1960’s and it doesn’t feel “beach bum” or “high brow” — it has understated class.  Not a touristy feel, like Daytona or St. Augustine — nor does it feel too glitzy, like Naples, or South Beach Miami.  I loved it.  (I always envision myself living in places that I visit, and this town felt great!!)  When we drove into this little main street area, I had noticed a gallery sign.  So we ventured back to it to check it out.

The Laughing Dog Gallery, Vero Beach, Florida

The Laughing Dog Gallery is a fine craft gallery featuring artisans from all over the U.S.  In case you are not schooled on what defines fine craft from fine art, here’s my attempt at explaining it.  Typically, craft has a function to it — pottery, jewelry, wood turning, glass blowing, etc. are all examples of “fine craft”.  2-dimensional paintings or drawings and 3-dimensional sculptures are considered “fine art” — where their purpose is to be visually experienced, and are not “functional”. The lines can be blurred between these two creative fields — and they can cross each others boundaries — there’s always a lot of discussion on this in the art world as new mediums are combined every day.  I try not to get too bogged down by it all — I just like looking at any handmade creation, craft or art.  And I love art glass, and I knew there’d be tons at this place!

Interior – The Laughing Dog Gallery

Mixed Media Fish by a Greensboro, NC artisan

I wish I had about $500 to spend on something — the gallery had terrific collectibles and jewelry!!  And lots of “dog” art!!  I snapped some photos, for inspiration, and asked some questions as my boyfriend and I explored the shelves and cases of original pieces.  The prices weren’t too bad — especially on the glass.  I am bookmarking this website for future gift giving and exploring — I even have friends that would be interested in selling their creations here.

Here is my favorite piece for the day — I recall the price being $695.  Ocean art.  Of course.

Jelly Fish Art Glass -by Richard Satava